Christophe Josse, Haute Couture, Automne-Hiver 2012-2013, Paris

Remove all clutter and the picture becomes clear. Christophe Josse’s couture proposition has become something of an optical illusion: stare at the embellishments for long enough and they disappear to leave only the pure workmanship of the structure and construction.
This season, Josse delivered one of his most pared down collections yet, free of ornamentation and anything that may distract from the whisper of luxury that swept out of his atelier and down the runway. The subtle shimmer strikes, and his muted colours take on a new brilliance. His structural elements stand out and through judicious choices in material, never become a gimmick.
His form-skimming daywear makes good use of its golden accents to offset his dark palette, and a well-defined shoulder belie the understated nature of his garments. Even eveningwear seems filtered through a sheen of self-restraint, as what could have been shining white and brilliant duck blue are muted to a quasi-whisper, one that is waited upon with bated breath.
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Photo credit: Kay-Paris Fernandes pour Mademoiselle à Paris
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