Elie Saab, Haute Couture, Automne-Hiver 2012-2013, Paris

By Lily Templeton On juillet 11, 2012 · Leave a Comment · In Fashion Insider

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When thinking of Elie Saab‘s couture, one has come to expect a certain type of high octane glamour, enriched with inimitable sparkle. In Constantinople’s Wake, Saab’s fall-winter 2012 couture offering started with Karlie Kloss’ smouldering strut, one that will land her in the ranks of the « supers » for many seasons to come.

But enough about the reigning queen of models, and more about the reigning king of the red carpets. Karlie’s embroidered black tulle kaftan had the audience gasping. This was unusual for him, and although most of his offerings were crowd-pleasing favourites of classically pretty shapes dressed up in Chantilly lace and thousands of beads, Saab continues the evolution in his design that has been marked in the recent few seasons. Gold leafed silk jacquards were beautiful, but did not entice as much as did the printed georgette, his bride stately but less enchanting than a cream gown embellished with just a drizzle of gold.

So it felt less like a literal interpretation of the fast and splendor of Byzantine dynasties, and more like a wisp of incense smoke through which a thousand glittering views reflected themselves. Very well played, as Saab toed the tightrope between his forté and a desire for evolution. The result was more than enough to make any girl present wish she had a date with the red carpet.